Posted by Bibhav Acharya
Chris, Mahendra, Bikram and I hiked up to Prabha to have conversations with folks who live there about their access to healthcare and about Nyaya’s clinic, which was opening soon. As we watched, listened and spoke, we learned a little more about suffering, health, nyaya (Nepali word for justice), and we reflected upon our role in Achham.
Prabha is a 30 minute hike from Sanfe Bagar, the site of Nyaya‘s clinic. One of the more developed settlements in Achham, Prabha has very closely placed communities of Kunwars (high caste Chettris) and Dalits (the “untouchables”: the lowest caste).
As we were walking up, we noted that several women and girls were working in the fields, collecting grass for cattle and wood for their homes. Males were conspicuously absent. Mahendra and Bikram (Bikram was born in Prabha and completed his schooling there before heading off to Kathmandu for further studies) said that most men are working either abroad or in other districts. Those who stay back do little in the fields and almost all manual and physical work is undertaken by women and girls. They told us that we would find a lot of men once we reached the village.
Several women and girls were working in the fields, collecting grass for cattle and wood for their homes. Males were conspicuously absent.
Because we got there on a Saturday, the government-operated health-post was closed. We were told that the health-post, like most in rural Nepal, is almost always unstaffed and not providing any services. Our first stop in Prabha was Madi where all residents were Kunwars. We talked with about 15 men, mostly in their 30s and 40s, who were sitting around and chatting after lunch. Everyone had heard about our clinic and was telling us how glad they were that a doctor was finally arriving in Sanfe. We asked them about healthcare in general in Prabha and were told that most people usually try traditional healers first and then go to a local private “medic”, a term for someone who may or may not have received formal health training and operates a pharmacy to provide allopathic health services at a steep price. I asked the medic in Prabha about his training. He has completed 3rd grade. He practices medicine based on working for 14 years for another medic, who is trained as an Auxiliary Health Worker and runs the most popular and profitable medical practice in Achham.
In Madi, we spoke with about 15 men, mostly in their 30s and 40s, who were sitting around and chatting after lunch.
The medic who runs this private practice and pharmacy in Prabha has completed 3rd grade.
One of the health programs operated by the Nepali Government recruits thousands of Female Community Health Volunteers (FCHVs) who live in the communities they serve. Nyaya is planning on engaging them as Community Health Workers (CHWs) and supplementing their training, enabling the FCHVs to provide primary care to their communities and make referrals for high-risk cases to Nyaya’s clinic. Although everyone at Nyaya believes we should provide a salary for the CHWs, the government rules make it impossible to hire these incredible health workers. It is very unfortunate that these women, who understand their community very well and have earned the trust and respect of their community members, are expected to work for free while other health workers (including doctors), who are absent from their job postings, are paid very well. Many folks we spoke with said that these paid health workers received medications for free from the government. However, instead of providing them for free to the villagers, they operate their own private practice and charge their patients, often requiring the latter to sell their personal belongings and take out large loans to pay for health services that should have been free or heavily subsidized by the government. Obviously, it was not possible for us to establish validity of this claim regarding every health center and every health worker. However, the formal surveys that Nyaya conducted and our conversations with people in Achham have captured many instances of staff absenteeism in government-operated health centers. This has led to a strong perception in the community that educated members, especially those working in health and development, are receiving benefits from the government or other donors and are making profits for themselves in the name of the poor.
Everyone we spoke with knew about FCHVs and said they are doing a good job in the little tasks they are assigned (administering vaccines and vitamin A capsules twice a year, making referrals, promoting health and in some cases, performing childbirth). Unless they are engaged by other organizations and the government in special projects, they are free almost all year. When asked if they did anything on the side, we were told that FCHVs do their health-related work in addition to all their housework so they have little incentive to do anything else since they are not paid. An older person commented that it was stupid to weigh kids and tell the parents that the kids need to eat more nutritious food because the parents are doing their best and there is nothing else they can do. Honest statements like these should haunt health organizations. Health workers should go beyond the tendency to treat these real-life issues as problems that can be solved by “increasing awareness”. It is obviously critical to convince parents that feeding nutritious food to the child is extremely important. But this only takes you half of the way. There is not much the parents can do if they are not able to produce or afford nutritious food.
Next we went to Podheri Khola, a dalit community, where we did not meet a lot of adult males since they are either in India, working in the fields or dead. We spoke with several children, 2 adolescent males and a mother in her late 20s and some other families. We could not find a single person who had heard about Nyaya’s clinic. The gap in communication was striking, especially given that one can not even tell where Madi ends and Podheri Khola begins. In the picture below on the right side, note the two houses with dark roofing materials. Those houses are part of Madi while the remaining houses are part of Podheri Khola. There is virtually no way to distinguish the two communities from outside yet the access to information and services is disproportionate since the upper castes do not interact with the dalits.
Note the two houses on the right with dark roofing materials. Those houses are part of Madi (where upper caste Chettris live) while the remaining houses are part of Podheri Khola (where dalits, people from the lowest caste, live). There is virtually no way to distinguish the two communities from outside yet the access to information and several services is disproportionate since the upper castes do not interact with the dalits.
When I asked all the children shown in the picture how many of them did NOT have parents working in India, only 3 raised their hands. Two were brothers whose father was working in someone else’s field in Achham (he does all the work, owner takes half of the harvest, leaving him with enough to feed his family for about 3-4 months per year). The third child’s father is dead.
We walked down to Sunarwada (community of goldsmiths, also dalits) where we met a 69 year old male who had not heard about the clinic. His nephew, who is a teacher, had also not heard of it. When asked about childbirths, we were told (again) that they happen in their homes unless there is a complication. Maternal health has suffered mainly because of this practice with 1 in every 125 childbirths leading to the death of the mother in Achham. I was reminded of a documentary screening I had attended on Achham in which a male “health worker” brags about conducting abortions. He explains the procedure which involves inserting either a sharpened bamboo or a hot iron rod into the vagina and poking the uterus and the fetus until it starts to bleed. Once the bleeding begins, you leave the instrument in for several hours until there is an abortion. The documentary was about a woman who had undergone this procedure and was left in that state for 16 days, after which she had died. She had been raped by an armyman during the Maoist war (although the director left this part out of the documentary so that the focus would be on the issue of treatment of women and not the politics of the Maoists and the Nepali Army). The person describing the procedure then goes on to mention that he has induced abortion on his wife using this method. When asked about the health risks and the possibility of his wife dying, he cheerfully replies: “Oh if she dies, I will just get a new one.”
One family showed us the Chaupadi Goth (literally “menstruation cattle-shed”) where women are sent to stay alone when they are menstruating, delivering a child or recovering after a delivery. As shown in the picture it is often an unclean space that is not higher than 4.5 feet. A recent childbirth in that family had taken place in the health-post. It was pleasantly surprising because 99.5% of childbirths in Achham take place outside a health center, often in Chaupadi or a corner of the house. They knew about the delivery allowance that the Nepali Government provides for deliveries carried out in a health center. They have been promised the stipend and are still waiting for it. It has been 7 months and they have no hope that they will receive the stipend. “These government institutions do not get anything done,” they said.
One family showed us the Chaupadi Goth (literally “menstruation cattle-shed”) where women are sent to stay alone when they are menstruating, delivering a child or recovering after a delivery.
We then spoke with a female whose husband is in India. She did not know about the clinic; when told, she asked us if it was for HIV. She said she has been tested for HIV several times. The global boom in HIV funding has trickled down to this corner of the world. Indeed, fueled by migration (about 80% households have at least one male member migrating to India for work), Achham and the neighboring district of Doti shoulder the highest rates of new cases of HIV in Nepal. HIV awareness programs and HIV testing have become quite common in Achham. If you do require treatment, however, the nearest HIV clinic is 12 hours away and costs about a month’s wage of an average Achhami, making treatment impossible for virtually everyone, a fact highlighted in a short documentary that Nyaya prepared. Nyaya plans to provide HIV care as a part of primary care soon. There are no official data for the percent of Achhamis with HIV but the District Health Officer of the neighboring Doti district had told me earlier that there were entire villages from where over 500 people would come for testing and about 40-50% were testing positive. Meanwhile the government and several organizations push for more awareness and tell the people that having a single sex partner and staying away from injecting drugs will prevent you from getting HIV. Almost all cases of HIV in Achham, Doti and other districts in rural Nepal have been attributed to migrant workers who spend several years in India, become infected and pass it to their wives and children who are faithful and abstain from injecting drugs.
We walked up to the home of a 16 year old woman and her 18 year old husband with a month-old daughter. They had not heard of Nyaya’s clinic. They had heard of the delivery allowance in the government health center but did not bother to deliver in the health-post. He said that the money never comes through. She also did not take the TT vaccine although they had heard about it. When we asked why they delivered the child at home, we were told it was “like a tradition. This is how things have been done and are done here.” Needless to say, the husband was doing all the talking.
We walked back to Madi. On the way back, we saw more women working in the fields. We passed by a small store where several men were chatting and playing cards. We got back to Madi and the men we had spoken with earlier were huddled in a store as well and playing cards.
On the way back to Madi, we saw more women working in the fields. In Madi, the men we had spoken with earlier were huddled in a store and playing cards.
A patient was brought in for check up at the private medic. 5 men had carried him for about 4 hours from Budhakot to Prabha. I spoke with the men who had carried him over. When asked about visiting traditional healers, they said it is like a tradition and it is the first thing they do. Only if that does not work they bring the patient to the medic. This is preferred because it is cheaper and closer, they said. When asked about childbirth, they said men do not stay around when women are in labor. Usually women do it on their own or may get some help from relatives. They usually do not have trained birth attendants around. Only if there is a complication, they are rushed to the medic. Sometimes it takes hours and even days and women die on the way. But the general philosophy appeared to be that unless there is a complication, childbirth is conducted at home. The man they brought in had a fever and was feeling weak for a week and they first took him to the traditional healer. His situation did not improve but he was still able to do some work so he continued. Then slowly he became very weak and unable to work or even walk so they brought him over. They said that if he feels better by tomorrow, he will be back working in the fields.
It is dangerous to make sweeping statements about a people after spending a day, a month, a year or maybe even several years with them. We are trained to be sensitive and to contextualize everything that may appear shocking at first. “Cultural relativism” comes to the rescue when outsiders may plan to break the social constructs that allow suffering of women, children, dalits and the poor. I think, however, that it is more dangerous to be a passive witness when you see women being treated worse than animals. Those social constructs need to be broken down, not by outsiders who may think their value system is superior to that of the target population but by the ones who are suffering. Improving health and improving lives are huge challenges. Finding the money and time to operate health systems like a clinic is an important first step but there is a long way to go. Spending time there and watching things from an “outsider’s” perspective (despite being a Nepali, I am aware that I am often perceived as an outsider since I am not from Achham and I very much felt like one as well), I now feel more strongly that our work should be about genuinely empowering those who are suffering the most. Seeing X number of patients in the clinic will not mean much if we are not able to help the most marginalized populations take back control over their lives. Nyaya plans to stay in Achham for as long as necessary but we will come and go while the people there will have to continue with their lives. There is not a lot that free antibiotics can do if women are expected to work 17 hour days, become pregnant every other year, given less food within the household and never have a strong and organized voice in changing the status quo. We should address health, of course, but we should address nyaya (justice) as well. The goal is to reach the most marginalized and provide them with support and resources to make real choices that are not hindered by oppressive practices and policies that are making people sick, exploiting them and killing them every day.
-Bibhav Acharya









Good job Bibhav on such a provocative post. I could hear your tone throughout the piece =). You bring up some fundamental issues ‘outsiders’ face when trying to educate and empower those living in poverty against a completely different cultural backdrop.
I agree that one of the biggest worries is how to go about empowering these people. How do you gain their trust and convince them that even though you are an outsider, you have their interests at heart and want to work with them to improve their lives?
Thus, I was particularly intrigued by the Female Community Health Volunteers (FCHV’s). Why has the gov’t made it impossible to pay them? What exactly is the regulation? Maybe there’s another way to give incentives to these women, to gain their support and also to raise their value and respect level in the community. Maybe you could help make their job easier, either through giving them access to better transportation (I’m not sure what that would entail) or to things they can distribute (food, anything of value) or give them payment in the form of food/necessities for their own family.
I think it’s great that Nyaya will be working with these women and supplementing their training so that they can do more in the community. It seems like there’s so little healthcare available that any additional services these women can offer would be a great improvement. And educating these women and allowing them to be spokespeople for Nyaya is probably one of the best concrete examples of empowerment that I can think of.
There are a lot of issues your post brings up, and I’m sure we’ll talk about them at some point, or many points. For now I just wanted to say that your words and images really communicate. I really love the photographs of the men chatting and the other one of them playing cards. Your post feels both journalistic and personal, and I appreciate that you show instead of telling, make observations without commenting because things can speak for themselves. I think that’s where you would draw the line between reality and art. But I have to say that for me art is most anything created, and I admire your ability to create your post and also remain committed to truth. I’ll have to catch up with your posts
I remember the first time you mentioned the term “chaupadi goth” and asked me if I knew what it meant. Being a Nepali or knowing the language did not prevent me from being completely unaware of the practice itself. Thus, I feel like I understand part of what you might have felt like an outsider, despite the commonalities that thought you might have shared as a Nepali.
Your post attests to the fact that health issues and thus the challenge of improving the health status of a community is not one dimensional ; especially when issues are compounded by social practices such as this one that ostracizes the most vulnerable.
its great to hear Nyaya has been working with great vigor.
I was also interested to join the nyaya team but things got otherwise and now i am currently in Parbat , Phalebas, an equally remote if not poorer part of Nepal. its a community run hospital (helping hands community health clinic) and i face so many typical difficulty that a young doctor faces in a nepali clinic setup- the traditional healers, the local ill trained lower and middle level health manpower, the carefree government employed health workers n biggest of all the abject poverty. people can’t even afford to buy the simplest of medications for which i have to send special request to local sub health posts to provide with the already meager supply they have..
Bibhav,
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and observations. Many of your comments about discrimination against women and the issue of healthcare delivery in societies where “jhaar-fook” is synonymous with medical treatment remind me of some shocking cases I have myself encountered during visits to rural areas of Tanahun. As you pointed out, one of the biggest challenges faced by any organization trying to deilver healthcare to rural areas is accessibility of service. While some villagers may choose to go to traditional healers simply because they trust them more than real doctors, others go to them because the former are much more accessible. I wonder if it’d be worthwhile to look into the possibility of a decentralized healthcare delivery system in rural areas, where representatives (similar to the CHWs trained by Nyaya) don’t just wait at a clinic for patients to come to them from distant villages, but instead visit those remote villages on a periodic basis. You could have, say, 5 paid CHWs well-trained in the basics of primary care and each one of them visits a remote village away from where the main clinic is set up once a week or month depending on health problems in that particular village. Better yet, this could be combined with an on-call service where one of your trained medical personnel can go to remote villages if they receive a message that someone in a remote village needs serious medical attention. If such a service is offered, I’d think villagers who were initially deterred by the inaccessibility of central health posts, will now be more likely to seek real medical help. I’ve heard news about telephone service in the most remote villages of Nepal lately- such a facility would make the decentralized system even more efficient because the message of medical emergency wouldn’t have to wait very long to be delivered. I know all of this is easier said than done, and you have probably seen or know of many constraints that make such an arrangement less possible or less efficient than it looks here on my computer screen…
It is indeed a real challenge to get people in rural areas to go to modern medicine and not “jhaar-fook” for their medical needs even when accessibility is not an issue. Many people I met in villages in Tanahun went to traditional healers first just because they trusted those “jhankris” more. They would do/eat anything the “jhankris” prescribed, but the idea of taking something that came packaged in caplets and brown bottles at the suggestion of some newbie who touts the miracles of modern medicine seemed ludicrous to them. I wonder if people in Acchaam who go to traditional healers for similar reasons could be given the real medical help they need if the traditional healer him/herself prescribed real medicine instead of some “jhaar” or “booti” or some kind of animal sacrifice. Do you think Nyaya could work with traditional healers- train them in modern medicine and even pay them if necessary and ask them refer patients to a real doctor for more serious health problems- to combine their faith healing with modern medicine so that skeptic villagers still get the real medical help they need?
Finally, it’s rather unfortunate that women in rural areas have to shoulder a large fraction of the physical labor needed to make a living for their families. I wonder if educating the younger generation (from school-going boys to newly weds) on the kinds of health risks borne by women throughout their life and especially during childbirth, and on the respect they really deserve could make at least some difference in the long run. If today’s sons learn that they should not treat their future wives the way their fathers have treated their mothers, the picture you’ve posted above of men playing cards while women work in the fields could become antiquated in the not-so-distant future.
Once again, thank you for sharing. it’s great to hear that you are making efforts to help the cause that you feel so passionately about.
- Brikha
Excellent job! This post will haunt me for a long time.
Your point about cultural relativism is well- taken. We can’t sit idle when there is so much oppression and brutality around us. As you so eloquently write, “We should address health, of course, but we should address nyaya (justice) as well. The goal is to reach the most marginalized and provide them with support and resources to make real choices that are not hindered by oppressive practices and policies that are making people sick, exploiting them and killing them every day.”
Yes, honest statements like these should haunt not only health organizations, but also every individual, and every sector of society and government.
Thank you for sharing your passionate work.
Dear Bibhav,
As often happens when I read anything you or Nyaya publishes, I am very impressed. Your sensitivity to caste and gender, insider and outsider status, and issues of power stand out from my normal reading of Fulbright and Peace Corps “development” materials. You understand that while you might be able to bring ideas, money, organization, and energy, you cannot “bring change”. Most of the change has to happen at the local level – change in attitudes, change in habits, eventually changes for justice. Clearly your model is working – the ideas, money, organization and energy are flowing into Achaam. You have the government on board for some things, and grants and personnel for others. And local change is happening – people are coming! Reading your post one could feel the scale of need is so huge, and the injustice so deeply rooted, that it is impossible to choose a place to start. You did – a place to start and a place to stand. I continue to wish you well – and to share the message.
Hi Bihav,
Thanks for writing very informative and realistic post.I totally agree with you.Nepal is one of the underdeveloped country of the world and Acham is one of the underdeveloped place in Nepal.One of the main issue is social awareness and its not easy to overcome it.The issues are more complicated by the local people such as AHWs and faith healers who are scared that they will loose business ,so they spread bad rumours against one who is willing to help the people.Its very sad but true.They take advantage of people’s ignorance,and its really hard to change the way people think.Regarding chaupadi,its really sad that women has to be in such condition during period such as menustration and labour when they read extra care.Hope people will be aware and realize that what they are doing is wrong.BUT here is the issue,Are the women live there on their will?or they are forced to live in it?coz I have heard that women truly belive that God will be angry if they live in house.Its so hard to change such beliefs.BUT hope the newer generation will realize the danger od Chaupadi.
Regarding FCHV.I m really impressed by their work and believe that they are the most important part of community health services in rural area.There was significant reduction of mortality due to ARI coz they are allowed to give Bactrim when there is ARI.They belong to community so, people listen to them,although , they are not on monthly salary , they are paid during different community activity.I think U may not be able to hire them but may be you can use them by giving incentives,They get paid during polio days,Vitamin A days, so may be You can make some activities like that and ask them for help.or U can take help from AMA samuha regarding health awareness,
As your post suggest , one if the main thing is lack of awareness ,esp the dalit community havent even heard of the clinic ,, so how will they come?BY now it must have been well known,if not , they U should target the well respected people of that community or AMA samuha,FCHV.
I know its not an easy task,There are lots of social issues.and its really challenging.But What you guys are doing is awesome ,Its really wonderful to know that you are doing so much in Acham,Wishing you for success,
very..good attempt..
all the best
regards
Jyoti raj sharma
Hi Bibhav,
This is very moving article. I am getting more and more committed to go and work in Achaam. I also think this role ‘outsider’, ‘insider’ is also constituted through history, and not natural. Afterall, people have been on the move always.
we are up for very serious and long-term stuff, as you said when we met in Boston. Parag, I and two other colleagues had had very serious discussions about how to spread the word around here, get more people interested in contributing to this wonderful initiative and also be part of it.
Lau hai ta